Bidin' Time

Arguably one of the best routes at Marshfield Ledge, Bidin' Time takes an improbable direct line up a series of headwalls on the left side of the slabs at Marshfield.  Each pitch features some combination of sustained slab, gymnastic steeper terrain or intricate face climbing.  A cooler, low humidity day is definitely preferential as is a very sticky pair of shoes.  Do not miss this line...P1 5.8 100' : Climb Benworthy of Waden to a dirty top out at a large oak tree.  Alternatively, walk around left to bypass this pitch.  Move right 50' on the tree ledge the base of a dark slab and an hourglass shaped flake. P2. 5.10c 100' : Move off the ledge past bolts to the top of the flake and then head directly up the slab above making progressively more desperate slab moves to an intersection with Benworthy of Waden.  Move up and right to a left facing flake and follow it to a bolt anchor atop a large flake pasted on the slab roughly shaped like the state of New York.P3. 5.10c 70' :   A lower angle crack leads up to an overhung headwall.   Place gear and undercling left to a block corner.  Launch strenuously up the corner on bolts to another sequence of very thin slab moves across a faint dike.  Easier slab climbing leads up and right to a bolt anchor behind a prominent hemlock. P4. 5.10c 100' : Move left from the belay to a left leaning flake.  Power up the flake to a stance.  Now decipher a series of intricate and puzzling moves on a steep headwall up to another no hands rest.  Tackle the final steep headwall to an amazing mantle with incredible position on the flat summit of the Marshfield slabs.  Locate a belay tree roughly 50' back from the lip and belayRap from the tree 3 rappels on a 60m rope to the ledge at the top of pitch 1.  walk off down and right or rap the first pitch of Benworthy.

Use the Tough Schist guidebook to locate the start of Benworthy of Waden.  This is the leftmost bolted route about 100' left of Black Streak (where the trail intersects the cliff).

A minimal rack to 2" will suffice as most of the route is bolted. The route can be rappelled off any pitch with a single 60m rope.