- Edit (TBD)
Boneless Chicken
Description
Thin friction, a gorgeous finger crack, and technical face climbing. Somewhat adventurous (dirty) in its current state but a lot of fun nonetheless.P1: 5.8 PG Climb pitch one of The Deadline. Up blocky holds and flakes to a horizontal crack (gear) to the birch tree ledge, then do a hard friction sequence to gain a bolt you wish was closer. Continue up the slab and right rising ramp, surmount a bulge, then finish up flakes and cracks to a belay ledge with an oak tree anchor. 80 feet.P2: 5.9 G From the belay walk 20 feet right along the sidewalk then follow good holds and gear up to a stance below a bolt. Clip and make some 5.9 friction moves up the face and past another bolt, eventually gaining the splitter finger crack that defines this pitch. After the crack peters into the slab move up and right to a stance on a ledge with a large overlap. Continue up passing cracks and a final bolt, then finish on a tree covered ledge. Scramble up and right and belay near a hemlock. 100 feet.P3: 5.10d G Clip the first bolt from the belay then step down and right from the hemlock. Wipe the dirt off your shoes and make techy thin face moves past 3 bolts. Traverse left toward the shallow open book (gear), climb up and clip another bolt, then fire into the crux sequence protected by micro cams. Gain the featured slab and enjoy some easier climbing past horizontals to a bolted ring anchor atop p2 of Shorty's Poop Route. 100 feet.Descent: Guidebook says to rap the route with two 60's.
Location
30 feet right of Requiem look for a birch tree growing 20 feet up.
Protection
Rack to 2" including microcams.
Routes in Marshfield Ledge
- 9Boneless Chicken5.10dTrad