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Peak Mountain 3

Captain Planet

FA Nate Vince, Hope Vince, Joe Consavage
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: The Zebra Slab (5.11b 5.8PG13): Start up the slab following the path of least resistance, passing a short hand-sized crack and aiming for a bolt up and left at about 30 feet. Clip then continue up and right passing 4 or 5 more bolts as you quest straight up the steep slab (crux). Once you're done enjoy a welcome stance before embarking up easier but heady terrain above, passing 5 more bolts and eventually reaching a two-bolt ring anchor. 150 ft.P2: The White Ceiling (5.12a 5.8PG13): Power straight up through a break in the arch (crux, bolt), then follow the arch to the left and continue easily up the slab to a comfortable belay ledge. Nate says this pitch is 5.9 A0 if you want to skip the 5.12 bit, with some spicy but moderate climbing similar to p1. Will update description when more info available.P3: (5.8): Walk/slab to the right until you find a fingers-to-hands sized crack and follow it up to a two-bolt belay. P4: Pitch 4 of Falcon's Fury (5.9R): Traverse a significant distance to the left, passing several ledges and eventually finding passage to the top of the cliff up a streak of white rock. The guidebook has this listed as G-rated although I've heard from a few people that it has a 5.9R move. Will update description when more info available (anyone care to chime in?) 160ftAll anchors bolted with rap rings although I'm guessing p4 is a tree anchor.Descent: P1-P3 can be rapped with a single 60m rope, using the anchor at the top of Black Streak to make the final rap to the ground. Knot the ends of your rope as this will be a serious rope-stretcher. P4 will require two 60's.

Location

The route starts high up in a gulley between the Black Streak area and the Ben Worthy of Waden/Biden Time area. From the base of Black Streak bushwhack up and climber's left following the forested area uphill into the tip of the A-shaped notch formed between the two slabs. If you're standing at the base of Black Streak you should be able to see 4 or 5 closely-spaced bolts on a near-vertical dark streak of rock 100 or so feet up and to your left, left of Hen Pecked Husband.  This is the crux of p1.

Protection

Single rack through #4 and maybe some small gear helpful as well