- Edit (TBD)
Description
Two long pitches of interesting, varied climbing with cool crux sequences. The only detractment are a couple brushy ledges, and one big ledge between pitches that make it a little less sustained. P1 10d, 160 feet. Start up slabby black rock past 3 bolts to vegetated ledge. Up, then cut right into a corner (#4 camalot) follow that up to another ledge. (Anchor here is for rappelling. Its possible to split this into 2 pitches but better as one long pitch) Climb the face and the corner, move onto the face entirely below the small roof and make tricky moves to a nice short crack. (Crux) Gain another ledge, step right and go up to another bolt on a slab. ( if climbing as one pitch with a single rope, consider back cleaning to reduce drag) Climb up to trees. Move the belay up and left to a large hemlock with a lot of pecker holes. P2 10a, 130 feet. This is the money pitch. Climb straight up above the big hemlock and through a small roof (cams) to gain the face above. Continue up passing bolts on unique, featured vertical fins of granite (be wary of breaking holds) to a 2 bolt anchor. Descent. 3 rappells with a 70 meter rope. (Or 2 with double 60s) The top pitch cannot be rapelled with a 60 meter rope. You will be rapping right to the ends with a 70 to get back to the pecked hemlock. Use caution.
Location
Right of Shortys Poop route, left of Marshfield corners. Look for black rock with black bolt hangers.
Protection
Bolts, light rack of cams to from 0 c3 to #1 camalot. Bring #4 camalot as well. Nuts not really needed.
Routes in Marshfield Ledge
- 11Lycanthropy5.10dTrad