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Peak Mountain 3

Requiem for a Dreamer

FA John Sykes and Mike Lee
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route provides a "well-protected" intro to the style of climbing at Marshfield. I use quotes around well-protected because the hardest parts of this route are well protected, however there are sections with significant space between protection, albeit on easier terrain. A fledgling 5.8 leader would probably not be happy on this route.

Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.

Location

Start: At the right side of the series of blocks leaning against the cliff. Look for a few shallow cracks and a low bolt.

Descent: Double rope rappel from the fixed anchor

Protection

Rack: A dozen draws (mix of trad draws and regular) single rack to .75 there are something like 7 or 8 bolts, can't remember.