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Peak Mountain 3

Casually Off-Route

FA Robbie Williams, Craig Francois
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a significant variation to

The Casual Route

(3 to 4 pitches). Climb the first 2 pitches of The

Casual Route

to the base of the steeper wall.

P3. Traverse left, climb up a bit, traverse left again and do an awkward mantle/pull around move to gain the belay ledge. (5.7).

P4. Begin in a wide section then continue straight up until you reach a stance just below the obvious "undercling variation" out left (5.8).

(I have only done the following variation, there is a 5.8 layback pitch that goes up and right.)

P5. Traverse left, the climbing gets a little harder and more committing as you go. Good gear, short, fun pitch (60ft.?). Belay at the base of a small crack heading up and right. (5.9).

P6. Tough move off the belay, then it eases as the route traverses up and right, meets up with the 5.8 layback pitch and eventually joins with

The Casual Route

. (5.7+).

You should be back on

The Casual Route

now somewhere around its 5th or 6th pitch (see that description for finishing options).

I've had people tell me that they prefer Casually Off better. Having done both, I would only say that they are both pretty good and were it not for the so-so ending options to these climbs I would be more enthusiastic. Mostly solid, clean rock and a short day.

Location

Start in the same location as for

The Casual Route

. There is a half-dead tree on left side of the gully.

Protection

Standard plus #4 Camalot.