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Peak Mountain 3

A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete

FA Jonathan Schaffer & Lindsey Schauer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is just a continuous 5.10 route. The last pitch is the best Eldo .10+/.11- !

P3. After the 1st 2 pitches of

Cloak and Dagger

, head right into a walk uphill, then climb a slot to face holds and cracks to an alcove belay in a peg band, .10.

P4. Continue up another slot to easy, wide, blocky chimney like to a belay ledge, .10-.

P5. Climb more face cracks to an awkward move to a ledge jug, then continue up a finger flake to a sloped boulder on the left, belay on the other side of it and sit in the seat someone made, .10+.

P6. Climb the hand and fist crack on the left or the hard to see fingers crack to the right, not the thin corner, that would be like .12? Belay on a perch ledge, .10.

P7. Head up the awesome, leaning crack system staying out of the of the o.w. chimney and climb the leaning sporty crack out right and crimp your way back into the system,then to an easy ledgy section, and then the "Eldo-like", leaning crack and face system to a tough move or two to the belay on the top of the Comic routes, .10/.11-.

Head left to the

Comic

raps and up the gully to camp and beers!

Location

This starts right of

Comic

and shares 1st 2 pitches of

Cloak & Dagger

.

Protection

Doubles and 3 each of hands, #1-#4. There is absolutely no need for any big stuff!