The Casual Route

Unlike "

Leisure Climb

" and "

The Cruise

," this climb actually lives up to its name - at least for the Black Canyon.

P1. Many variations up slab and ledges, trending up and slightly left. Belay at ledge with small tree just below a corner with a finger crack. (5.6R)

P2. Climb finger crack and then continue up on low grade 5th to the base of the next steep portion of the wall. (5.8)

P3. Traverse right (

Casually Off-Route

goes left here) to a large crack/corner, climb this and then traverse right again. (5.8)

P4. Climb hand and finger crack up and left to a short chimney, belay on ledges above. (5.8)

P5. Slab, ledges and crack up and left to a large ledge (5.6).

From here, you can walk off left to a gully which is somewhat nasty and not recommended or continue up and right to some mediocre pitches which are also not recommended.

P6. Climb diagonally up and right across loose ledges. (Worst pitch of the climb.) Aim for a small, left-facing corner and after surmounting this, traverse right on a ledge 50 feet or so. (5.7)

P7. Climb peg groove-corner for 40 feet then easier ground. (5.8)

P8. Many options to top. (5.6ish)

This description combines Pitches 4, 5, 6 from Williams guide into 2 pitches. Other combinations would be possible but with all of the low angle climbing and traversing (and great belay ledges) linking may be difficult.

There are some good sections of this climb, but they are short. Despite the 8-pitch description, this climb goes quickly. Much of the climb is 5.6 or under.

Head down the SOB to the buttress uphill from the

Escape Artist

Comic Relief

area (if you've reached them you have gone too far). There is a half-dead tree at the base that serves as a useful landmark. Gain ledges just above and to the right of this tree.

Standard with #4 Camalot - no fixed gear.