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Peak Mountain 3

Lightning Bolt Crack

FA Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, October, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lightning Bolt Crack is a zig-zagging, left-leaning, overhung, rattly fingers splitter on perfect shield of golden, diamond-hard rock.

The crux is right off the ledge until a hand jam in a pod is acquired 30 feet up. This is solid, sustained, steep 5.11 crack climbing. From the handjam, steep fingers lead to good jugs (11-). After a mantel onto a shelf, more steep climbing leads to a stance (10/10+).

Location

Begin by climbing

Escape Artist

or

Comic Relief

to the Lightning Bolt Crack ledge. In the left corner is a dirty 9+ handcrack. On the face just to the right is the Lightning Bolt Crack. You can't miss it.

Protection

1-2x 0.4, 2x 0.5 and 2x 0.75 C4, a couple large nuts, and a hand-sized piece or two. Bring more 0.5 C4s if you don't like leaning ringlock splitters or are strong enough to sew it up.