- Edit (TBD)
Description
One of the top ten routes in the Tieton.
Start as for Basic Needs. Clip that route’s seventh bolt with an alpine draw, then veer right and weave between roofs to arrive at the overhanging base of a prominent arête. Reach through the bulge to a jug and crank through with some trickery to a stance directly on the arête. After few moves on the knife-edge of the arête, move right to a beautiful, exposed splitter finger-to-thin hand crack (gear). When the crack turns wide, there’s a final bolt to protect a compression bear-hug move. Easy finish to the top.
Location
Starts just left of major open book with splitter crack (North Star).
Protection
Mostly bolted (~13(?) bolts total), with the following gear in order of placement:
Lower route (shared start with Basic Needs): TCU or equivalent between bolts 2 and 3; #1 BD cam after bolt 6. Alpine draw for clipping bolt 7.
Upper crack: small wired nut; TCU or equivalent; #2 BD cam before last bolt (optional); #2 BD cam after last bolt (optional; easy runout to anchor otherwise).
Ends at shared anchor bolts with Basic Needs. Scramble up and left to top out the cliff (belay recommended), or make two rappels to the ground using the North Star anchors.
Routes in North Fork Cliff
- 9Medicine5.11aTrad