- Edit (TBD)
Description
The original route at the crag. Jim and I wasted nearly three hours on a misguided attempt to find an alternative approach to the cliff. Then I set off on an on-sight, ground-up ascent, jettisoning loose rock and clumps of moss as I went. I later returned to give the line a proper top-down cleaning. The route still has a bit of an alpine flavor, but it’s a good route for topping out at the end of the day.
Start with a short hand crack that splits a right-facing pillar, then follow slabby cracks up to a prominent roof that you turn on the left side (crux). Above the roof, traverse right on juggy features to a second roof. The route ends with a right-facing corner. Near the top, where the corner turns wide, move right to clip a bolt and finish directly up the face. There are belay bolts at the back of a spacious pillar top.
Protection
Full rack of cams. No wired nuts needed. Bring alpine draws for extending pieces below the second roof.
Can rappel using the Fire Break anchors.
Routes in North Fork Cliff
- 3Into the Wild5.8+Trad