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Peak Mountain 3

Cloudwatching

FA Andy Fitz, Jim Matthews (2015)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A beautiful, sustained, committing finger crack in a corner.

Begin with the right-hand start for North Star. Stop and belay at the bolted anchor, or continue up a ramping slab into the corner. The protection opportunities are sparse at the start, but get better as the angle of the rock steepens and the corner crack opens up. At a lone bolt, lieback a solid, but thumping, flake at the base of a hanging pillar.  Then the real fun begins: a thin finger crack that barely varies in width the whole way to the anchor, with a fiddly-pro crux part way up.

Although the first ascent went all the way to the top, the route now stops at a chain anchor at the end of the 5.10 difficulties. From there, it's two rappels to the ground. It’s possible, but not recommended, to continue to the top (5.7; scary block, dirty finish).

Location

Corner crack in an obvious huge right-facing open book

Protection

Pro to #2 BD cam; multiples in small cams/TCUs and medium/small wired nuts.