Fireweed

A long sojourn that might leave you physically and mentally taxed. Great fun!

The route has two distinct halves. The first half is entirely gear protected, linking stepped cracks and face moves up to a stemming corner with a finger-to-hand-sized crack splitting the left wall. There’s a unique patch of the route’s namesake fireweed at the back of this corner; please leave it undisturbed. The first half ends with leftward moves out of the corner to a mantle below a smooth arête feature (#3.5 BD cam).

The second half is entirely bolted (with an optional cam placement). Cruxy lieback moves on the arête lead to a good rest, followed by face moves to a cruxy bulge. Clear the bulge on a combination of good jugs and bad crimps, then surmount another cruxy section of crimps on a vertical wall. The climbing eases in a shallow, left-facing corner (optional TCU placement) before a final 5.10 roof. At the last bolt, cut hard left on a face hold to finish around the arête to the left. Belay at a chain anchor, or from the ledge above using the single line rap anchors (see opening description).

Directly below the end of the approach path and the Option 1 rap-in bolts.

Gear to 3.5 BD cam for first half; include hand crack-sized cams, small cams/TCUs, and wired nuts. Bring two or three alpine draws for extending pieces. Bolt below final roof best clipped with an alpine draw.

No intermediate rappel anchor; you can't rappel this route with a single rope!