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Peak Mountain 3

Fossils of Youth

FA Andy Fitz, Jim Matthews (2015)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun two-pitch route that climbs much better than it looks.

Pitch 1: A 5.6-ish hand crack leads to stemming (protect in horizontal cracks) and a somewhat strenuous small roof. After a bolt-protected face move (clip with alpine draw), clear a larger, more strenuous overhang (5.10; TCUs/small cams) to gain a chain anchor.

Pitch 2: Face moves lead up to and around the left side of a crux bulge and into a bolt-protected shallow corner. There’s a spot for a .75 cam above the bolts, then pull through a bulge on face holds and thin jams (second crux; small wired nuts) into a prominent right-facing corner below a roof. Stem up past an optional TCU placement, clip a bolt out right, and move around the right side of the roof. Clip the final bolt and cut back left above the roof on cool bulbous features.  Ends at a chain anchor directly above the roof.

This route does not top out. Two rappels to the ground.

Location

See base photo

Protection

1 bolt on pitch 1; 8 bolts on pitch 2. A few hand-crack sized cams for the start, but otherwise mostly small cams/TCUs and small wired nuts. Small wired nuts mandatory for the upper crux.