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Peak Mountain 3

Persecuted for Righteousness

FA pitch 2 Todd Perkins + Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Interesting varied face climbing.

Higher quality if also do start Variations from the same Top-Rope setup - (perhaps with a directional quick-draw also the start Variations and direct finish Variation of the route to the right of this one).

Pitch 2 is bolted. Pitch 1 is not (as of 2018).

Top-rope pitch 1 from bolt anchor at top of pitch 1 of the route "

Breaking the Sabbath

".

Pitch 1 (90 ft): Start up the left (NW) side of the outer (west) face of the 25-ft-tall detached pillar.

. . . Variation "Through the Eye": Up the wide non-steep crack / gap that separates the Left (N) edge of the "Mount" pillar from the main wall (4th class or 3rd).

. . . Variation "Let Not Your Left Hand Know": Up the arete which forms right edge of Left (N-running) gully and the left edge of left side (N + W) of main face of the "Sermon on the Mount" pillar. Hands touch only exactly on the arete.

. . . Variation "Poor in Spirit": Start up the left (North-NorthWest) side of the face of the "Mount" pillar, near its left edge/arete, but not using the left edge of the face for holds - (? Extra points : Use only one hand. Which?)

Stand up on left side of the top of the "Sermon on the Mount" pillar (below its peak). Step across the gap onto the main wall, and straight up that on small holds. Later into a 15-inch-wide 8-inch-deep orange channel just left of non-thick square block. Continue straight up to finish at ledge a few feet right from bottom of obvious right-facing inside corner with crack (which is the Trad route "

Book of Prophesy

").

Pitch 2 (70 ft): On the obvious ledge, start a bit left of the two-bolt anchor for the route "Breaking the Sabbath" (to the right of the three-bolt anchor below "Book of Prophesy").

Roughly straight up the face, staying about 10 ft right from the big right-facing corner of the route "Book of Prophesy".

Go just left of 2nd bolt down from top of pitch 2 of route "Sticky Revelations" and finish to two-bolt anchor-with-chains just left of big rock leaning against the lower right of the triangular face at the top of the cliff.

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

Location

At the 25-ft-tall detached pillar (or "Mount") just left from wide gentle solid-rock platform by the right end of this Wall.

See line

E

in this Photo

. . . .

or in this Photo

variation "Poor in Spirit" - - >

line

vE

in Photo

Protection

Bolts+chains+rings top anchors, but No intermediate bolts for leading on Pitch 1 as of 2018. Yes intermediate bolts for leading Pitch 2.

Top-Rope from bolts+anchors+chains anchor at top of pitch 1 of the route "

Breaking the Sabbath

".

Top-Rope from bolts+anchors+chains anchor at top of pitch 2 of this route (which is a few feet right and above the top anchor of the route "Book of Prophesy".

Two-bolt anchor at top of pitch 2: Both bolts are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor

Team-Tough.com

. One bolt is 150mm / 5.9 inch deep; the other is 100mm / 3.9 inch deep. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter.

Chains and quick-links are Plated steel. All installed 2019.

Intermediate bolts for leading on Pitch 2 are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins 100mm / 3.9 inch deep by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor Team-Tough.com. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter. Installed 2019

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.