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Peak Mountain 3

Sticky Revelations

FA Goss, Horn
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Description

This route is located on the far right side of Prophesy Wall.

The first pitch is on good varnished edges (5.7, about 75ft). About 3/4 of the way up it reaches a ledge under a small roof, and passes around the left side of the roof. It finishes up to an obvious ledge with a bolts+chains+rings anchor (which is just left of the bolts+chains+rings anchor for the route "False Prophets").

The second pitch is also on good varnished edges (5.8, about 75ft). About 2/3 of the way up the original route goes sharp diagonal left following bolts-with-hangers to reach the two-bolts-with-chains anchor (for the trad route "Book of Prophesy") above the big right-facing inside corner.

Variation 2.1 -- There is a variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun.

Variation 2.2 -- Where the original route turns diagonal left, instead continue straight up past two glue-in bolts to two-bolts-with-chains anchor just below big detached rock face - (convenient if stopping after Pitch 2)

Variation 2.3 -- At the first bolt after turning sharp left for the final traverse, instead of continuing left, head straight up to a high two-bolt anchor (for Persecuted for Righteousness) just left of big detached rock face - (convenient for next doing the main 5.10 version of Pitch 3).

The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).

There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. It angles to the left to another set of anchors.

Descent: Three rappels with a single rope.

Location

At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar.

Start on that rock platform about ten feet right from the right side of the pillar, below a bolt.

Start is shared with the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Above the first bolt (where "Breaking" goes left), this route continues roughly straight up.

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Protection

Draws, optional trad gear for Variation 2.1 hand crack on pitch 2.

The two lead glue-in bolts and the glue-in bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor Team-Tough.com. The two intermediate-lead glue-ins are 100mm / 3.9 inch deep. The anchor glue-in bolt is 150mm / 5.9 inch deep. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter.

The other bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 is Powers 5-piece sleeve bolt about 4 inch long / 0.5 inch diameter, bolt + hanger 304 Stainless steel. Chains and quick-links are Plated steel. All installed 2019.

The other intermediate-lead bolts (with hangers) and the other anchors at tops of the pitches are of unknown composition and age.