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Peak Mountain 3

Idle Chatter

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Description

If you came to this end of the Wall looking for serious pronouncements or warnings, this is not the route for you.

Fun moves the whole way. Sustained in its difficulty grade.

Top-Rope with directionals (including rock horn?) from the bolt anchor at the top of pitch 1 of the route "False Prophets" / "Beware of the Gong".

Start at top of slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the gentle solid-rock platform near right end of Prophesy Wall -- at large right-facing inside corner with overhanging ridge above left, and an old rusty piton 10 feet to its right -- below obvious left-trending gully.

First up the corner (crux?) onto wide smooth platform at bottom of gully.

. . . Variation 0 (much harder): Instead start up face under old rusty piton (with a quickdraw on piton as directional) - (same as the route "Interview with a Psychopath").

Next up the left side of the obvious left-trending gully, roughly straight up, climbing over a foot-wide crack.

. . . Variation 1 (a bit harder like say 5.7 with different style of moves): Instead go up the right side of the left-trending gully, along obvious crack in shallow right-facing inside corner - (which might be the same as the route "Interview Psychopath"). Where the gully turns straight up, step left across to join main route.

Just after passing to left of ten-ft-tall overhang, where the main gully trends right to go much higher,  exit left thru notch onto wide flat platform. Next up gully rising from right end of platform to finish at right end of obvious wide ledge with a single bolt above near its end, and two bolts+chains+rings anchors to its left. The right of those two anchors is the top of the routes "False Prophets" + "True Believers".

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

Location

At top of slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, at large right-facing inside corner with overhanging ridge above left, and old rusty piton 10 feet to its right, below obvious left-trending gully.

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variation:

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Protection

Bolts+chains+rings top anchor, but No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Top-Rope from bolts+anchors+chains anchor at top of pitch 1 of the route "False Prophets" (which could also be reached by first leading pitch 1 of "Sticky Revelations"). Need to be careful to set up directional protection with quick-draws on bolts or "natural" around rock horns -- or perhaps Trad gear placements (especially for Variation 1), so a falling climber does not get hurt swinging sideways into protruding rock.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.