- Edit (TBD)
Description
On the ledge about about half way up
Sticky Revelations
is a right facing corner.
The Book of Prophesy Variation
is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.
Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.
Location
Find gentle solid-rock platform at bottom of right side of cliff which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar. About 70-80 ft up from that is a ledge with three bolts+chains+rings anchors. The middle one of those anchors is the top of pitch 1 of the route "Sticky Revelations".
The left-most of these anchors is under an obvious right-facing inside corner with a crack. This anchor is at the top of the one-pitch bolted route "Breaking the Sabbath". The route "Book of Prophesy" starts here and goes up that corner-with-crack. It finishes by the multi-bolt anchor at the top of pitch 2 of "Sticky Revelations".
Protection
This crack takes mostly small to medium protection. A full, single rack up to 3", stoppers, slings and draws will work just fine.
Routes in Prophesy Wall
- 41The Book of Prophesy Var.5.8Trad