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Peak Mountain 3

Santa Claws

FA Sonia Buckley, Adrian Weaver, 12/25/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an enjoyable moderate route on the far right side of the wall. Go up the ramp past

Cat Scratch Fever

, do the undercling move to gain the upper bench, walk past

Mr. Bitey...

and an enormous chimney, and you will be in front of a super clean buttress (Santa Claws Buttress). Santa Claws goes up the clean, left-facing corner on the right side this buttress. This route got its name because we put it up on Christmas day.

Climb the corner using a combination of finger locks, stemming, and liebacks (crux). It is well-protected by cams to a #2 BD and small stoppers. At the top of the corner, clip a bolt, and undercling up and left on the lower of two possible underclings. When you get back on your feet, a #0.5 BD can be placed with a long sling. Climb up through the roofs (two bolts in place). After clipping the second bolt, traverse right, and stem up the corner to a sandy mantel that provides a good deal of entertainment. No matter how many times I cleaned this shelf off, it always gets full of sand and other debris. Luckily, the sand doesn't really affect the climbing. You never know what you'll find here. One time there was a big, ole pinecone on this shelf. After the mantel, one more small cam and some more stems will bring you to the chains.

You can lower off with a 60m, but knot the end, because it is close.

Location

It ascends the big, left-facing corner on the far right.

Protection

Stoppers, two sets of cams to a #0.5 BD, single cams to #2 BD, slings, and draws.