Cat Scratch Fever

The route that started it all! Scramble up a rampy feature that leads to a crack system in the center of the wall, and rack up here. This crack system is

Toxoplasmosis

, but Cat Scratch Fever shares the first 10 feet.

P1, 5.11c. Climb the crack system for 10 feet, dirty at first then good. Clip a bolt and step right to engage the "cat scratches", a series of diagonal cracks that seem impossible to relax in. Climb past a second bolt, and proceed to protect with gear when the scratches open up enough to accept it. Arrive at a horizontal crack system, and rest a sec, because this whole section is quite sustained. Clip a third bolt, and do a weird, no hands mantel onto a sloping ledge and the belay. This is probably my favorite pitch of ropes climbing in BV for what it's worth.

P2, 5.12a. This is a demanding pitch with many cruxes. Traverse up and right off the belay, clip a bolt with a long sling, and stand up into a vertical seam. A purple Metolius protects an insecure move up to the second bolt. Another insecure sequence takes you to the roof and a third bolt. The roof is quite powerful, but you get a decent stance after pulling it. The fourth bolt has fixed chain draw on it, so short people can clip it too. Clip it, and climb up the slab that may somehow remind you of the cat scratches on P1 (a bit exciting). Arrive at the next roof, clip another bolt, and mantel right onto a secret ledge. Step back left over the roof, and continue to the last bolt protecting with cams if desired. Step left, and climb the overhanging cracks to the belay.

P3, 5.9. Climb up and right above the belay turning a bulge. Don't go up and left in the wide crack. Follow some kitten scratches through a slabby section, and arrive at an intermediate anchor. Stop here if you are only interested in the good climbing, because it gets chossy above. Otherwise, continue up to a tree (bolted rappel anchors to the left) on top of the wall.

P4, 5.0. Scramble up a dirty slab to the trees above and belay. A several minute hike from here will take you to the top of the "tower" and will give you good views down into a neat "chalk chasm" on the backside.

Descent: rap

Toxoplasmosis

with a single 70m rope or Cat Scratch Fever with a 60m rope (harder).

Look for the "cat scratch" cracks that split the clean lower face. Two bolts are also visible.

Bring two sets of cams purple Metolius size through #1 BD, one #2 BD, Stoppers, six draws, and four extendable sling draws.