The Smoking Hole

The Smoking Hole tackles the biggest roof on the wall and has the highest quality 3rd pitch of any route on the wall. It is also the most sustained route on the wall and offers 3 full pitches of challenging, quality climbing. Start on the far left side of the wall, just right of a wild looking, chalk chimney.

P1, 5.11+, 45m.  This is a very fun and varied pitch. Scramble up easyish slabs for about 20 feet, placing gear as desired, to arrive at the first of six bolts on more vertical rock. Sustained technical face climbing take you to the base of a bulge (the technical crux of the pitch). Clip a high bolt (chain draw), and do some punchy, powerful liebacking through the bulge (power crux of pitch) to a decent stance. Climb a flaring fingers seam for 30 feet with good small cams available (trady crux) to one last roof. Traverse right along the lip of this roof using a surprising rail, and crank over when it feels right. There are anchors are just above.

P1, variation, 5.11+.  Avoid the first 5 bolts of this pitch by climbing a dirty, left-facing corner to the right that joins back into the line at the power bulge. The independent climbing of this variation is probably 5.10-, but it doesn't change the grade of the pitch, since the upper half still deserves the 11+ in my opinion. The corner protects well enough but is not very pleasant to climb - not recommended.

P2, 5.12c, 15m. This is the big roof pitch. Move up and right off the belay, and lieback through a 5 foot roof (with a bolt at the lip). Then climb straight up, flaring seams to the base of the big roof, and clip a second bolt. This roof is probably 15 feet long and 50-60 degrees overhanging. It feels like a more exposed version of the London Gray Wall that is located up the road a bit (it is probably formed along the same joint system). Climb the roof past a third bolt, which is very powerful and techy but luckily has a big jug in the middle that greatly eases the climbing. Punch it over the lip liebacking off a finger tip crack until you get established on the slab above. Follow the finger crack up to and over one last mini-bulge that looks harmless from below. This last bulge is kind of a sleeper move, and the pitch ain't over until you clip the chains.

P3, 5.11, 35m. From here, it is possible to escape right into the last pitch of

Toxoplasmosis

, but the third pitch of this route is not to be missed and is the best option for topping out the wall. Traverse up and left below a big imposing roof, clip a bolt at the lip, and crank over on surprising jugs. From here, follow the line of bolts to the top of the wall. The climbing on this pitch alternates between roof cruxes and slab cruxes, and you end up turning at least 6 different roofs. The rock quality is quite good for the majority of the pitch but deteriorates a bit near the top (some grainy rock and dirt). For the end of the pitch, you will end up in a dihedral/gully feature and will climb past the rap anchor on your left. It's recommended to take this dihedral to the ledge and belay off a big tree, skipping the rap bolts. The pitch has 9 bolts on it, and the only gear needed are a orange Metolius cam and a #0.75 BD cam.

P4, 5.0. Scramble up a gully and dirty slab to the trees above and belay.  A several minute hike from here will take you to the top of the "tower" and will give you good views down into a neat "chalk chasm" on the backside.

Descent: rap

Toxoplasmosis

with a single 70m rope. It is also possible to rap the line with 2 ropes.

Start on the far left side of the wall just right of a wild looking chimney. Look for the line of bolts 25 feet up.

Two sets of cams purple Metolius size through #0.75 BD, seven draws, and five extendable sling draws.