Toxic Cat Hole

This is a link-up of

Cat Scratch Fever

,

Toxoplasmosis

, and

The Smoking Hole

. While this link-up provides arguably the best and most challenging way up the wall, it misses some beautiful climbing on all three routes.

P1, 5.11c, 20m. Climb most of the first pitch of

Cat Scratch Fever

. Near the end of the cat scratches, place gear in the left scratch, and step left to the belay on

Toxoplasmosis

.

From here, one can take

Toxoplasmosis

to the top. This link-up is called "Death by Kittens" and is a good way to climb the wall.

P2, 5.12+, 35m. At the time of writing, this pitch is the most demanding on the wall and one of the most spectacular. Climb the second pitch of

Toxoplasmosis

until just after its crux roof (5.12). Instead of going up and right as for

Toxoplasmosis

, step up and left and join into the crux roof on the

Smoking Hole

(5.12+), and follow that pitch to its anchors. Take good care to runner this pitch good or you can get some drag going over all the roofs which will make the crux much harder. If you choose to place gear below the first roof of the smoking hole be sure to have a double length sling (or longer) ready and be sure to flip the rope over the roof before clipping the bolt at the lip. If you do that the rope will run pretty smoothly. It's actually a fairly straight pitch bit it goes through all those roofs which complicates the drag issue.

P3, 5.11, 35m. Take

The Smoking Hole

to the top. There are many roof and slab cruxes on this pitch.

Rap

Toxoplasmosis

with a single 70m rope.

Start on

Cat Scratch Fever

, and proceed as stated above.

Bring double cams to #0.5 BD, a single #.75, #1, and #2 (optional for start of

CSF

), ten extendable draws, and 4 sport draws, one double length sling. You can leave the #1 and #2 at the first pitch anchors since you'll be rapping through there and won't need them above.