- Edit (TBD)
Description
The name of this route is Poon Limp or Eat Crust (TDA homage to swoop gimp in Zion). The name was auto redacted at some point.
The route Three pitches of mostly bolted climbing with a couple cams interspersed in. Good Devils castle climbing up rock that seems steeper than it appears. All belays are at great ledges. Follow the line of bolts and place cams where there aren't any bolts. Rap the route with one 60 meter rope via 3 raps. This is a great route to climb before doing portable darkness if you want more pitches.
Pitch one: Climb straight up past bolts to a crack below "the ear." Place cams till you climb into the maw of the ear. Do a couple poon limp moves (similiar to the maw on crescent crack) past bolts to a nice ledge. 5.10a. Note: there is a bolt at the top of the ear that helps protect the second and keeps the rope off the rock.
Pitch two: Climb up past two bolts to gain a ledge. Walk right on the ledge then climb up heading towards more bolts. USE LONG RUNNERS HERE on the first 6 bolts of this pitch or you'll have rope drag. Climb into the steep bulge sections past more bolts to a small airy belay ledge with anchor. 5.10a
Pitch three: Climb up and left into a corner past multiple bolts to the a large ledge with a belay anchor. 5.7
Location
This route is located west of Portable Darkness up the big black streak. The bolts are visible from the base. It climbs an obvious ear looking feature 50 feet off the ground. The ear has bolts, therefore large gear is not needed, so don't be scared. Each pitch arches therefore the belayer is not directly under the line of fire.
Protection
At least 8 long runners to minimize rope drap. Only one set of BD cams (.75- #3). Yellow and orange tcu's. You will likely not need all of those. A whole bunch of quickdraws. One 60 meter rope. Helmets.
Routes in Devil's Castle
- 11[Redacted]5.10aAlpine · Trad