- Edit (TBD)
Description
Natural features up initial cracks to shallow open bookish climbing on good ol' Devil's Castle limestone.
Initially, cracks are solid and take some gear and the rock is good. Near the top there's a set of stacked blocks which are loose. Would be safer to be to the left on the bolted line.
Past the creaky blocks where the wall get steeper, traverse slightly left to anchor on Portable Darkness.
The route follows natural weaknesses and after the initial lower angle slab cracks, leads to some sketchy steeper looseness.
Not a recommended route. This was the initial probe establishing the first pitch anchor for Portable Darkness. Doubtful its been repeated.
Location
Just right of the first pitch bolt line of Portable Darkness.
Rappel or continue up from first pitch bolted anchor of Portable Darkness.
Protection
Standard rack to include a set (or two) of cams and a full set of nuts. One lead bolt near the end of the route on the steeper flat left facing wall prior to the creaky finish set of blocks.
Routes in Devil's Castle
- 10Friday the 13th5.8Alpine · Trad