Portable Darkness

All pitches are 30 meters (100 feet) long and end at bolted belay anchors. Assume all pitches have loose rock.

P1 - Ascend the lower angle slab to a short, steep finish and belay anchor on a shallow ledge (5.8). 11 bolts.

P2 - Climb slightly left and up the steep, black face. Small to medium cams supplement the bolts on this pitch (#2 TCU especially useful). Finish up a neat chimney to an exposed belay position (5.9+). 11 bolts, one piton.

P3 - Trend up and left, aiming for a steep, black shallow corner at the base of the prominent arête. Lower angle rock interspersed with dirt and gravel bars (take care). Pass three bolts below a tree positioned straight above the P2 belay, pass the short pine bush either right (up to tree, then traverse left) or below to the left. One more bolt leads to the belay anchor on a ledge on the low angle slab (5.3). 4 bolts.

P4 – Paddle up the slab, clip bolt on face, then climb up to steep, black face in the shallow corner. Pin, bolt, pin (long sling reduces rope drag), bolt. Place gear. Out of the darkness, into the light (climb goes from north facing to west facing). Step up and move right on exposed ledge (pro on right side of flake) then up at transition of arête and face, passing 3 more bolts to a belay ledge (5.9). 6 bolts, two pitons.

P5 – Pass a tree in the corner, clip piton, then pretty much straight up, staying right of the arête at the transition of the arête and face, passing ledges in lower angle terrain. Bolt, pin, pin (long sling or skip) then 3 bolts to belay anchor just right of the arête, and right of the base of a large, flat topped block on the arête (5.7). 4 bolts, three pitons.

P6 – Step up, clip bolt, then pin, then step left and clip bolt. Climb up arête passing small roof, bolt, then continue up arête. Clip several more bolts. At a break in the arête, clip bolt on steep face on the left side of the arête with a long sling, then traverse slightly to the right side of the arête, clip bolt, then up face to short pinnacle summit. Traverse broken low angle terrain to final short steep face, bolt, then up to left angling low angle to belay anchor (5.8). 10 bolts, one piton.

30 meters (100 feet) to the right of Gothic Pillar. Start on a low angle slab and look for a brown colored bolt hanger on the light gray face. There has been notable rock fall from above (wear a helmet). There are lower angle goat trails above and especially to the right of the route. If windy, rocks can dislodge and come down unannounced as well. Route could be descended with a single 60 meter rope (hard rope pull on pitch 4) but it’s much safer to walk off to the West.

The route ascends through a chimney visible from below on the first steep section, then a low angle slab to a steeper black face at the base of the prominent arête. This buttress is the last steep arête on the right side of the main north face that continues to the summit ridge of Devil’s Castle. The route follows the right (West facing) side of the arête (Gothic Pillar is on the left side of this arête) and the last pitch finishes on the arête itself.

Helmet. Fully deployed loose rock radar.

Recommended Rack:

Cams: 0 TCU to 1 Camalot (or equivalent)

12 Quick Draws

6 Slings