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Peak Mountain 3

Devil's Lettuce

FA: Phillips & Douglas, '06. FFA: Watson & Phillips, '10.
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Description

A fun 2 pitch route lookers left and slightly downhill from Horns of Satan and the North Face Gulley. This thing is sports the steepest pitch at the Devils Castle!

P1: Belay on a ledge with a steep roof overhead. Pull the roof and follow the bolts and 1 pin to the 2 bolt belay. This belay stance kind of sucks, but whatever.

P2: Pull another roof to begin and continue up that nice yellow glazed limestone (aka the good stuff at the castle). The pitch is predominantly jugs with one reachy move. After the crux you'll funk your way up a cool dihedral with some more huge holds and finish with an airy traverse when you're nice and pumped. Belay on a really nice ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.

Descend with 2 one rope rappels. The first rap is 90% free hanging so watch your rope ends and kick off the wall just before hitting the p1 station. The second rap is chill and deposits you right where you started.

the granite guide has incorrect beta for both route length and protection needed.

Location

Approach as for the Black Streak, but fade left a hundred feet before that route and find this thing on a small stump just left of the North Face Gulley.

Protection

1 70m rope + 16-18 draws. There's no need for gear.