Ingy's Ice Cream

Another great route at the center of the main slab. It may have a dirty start but it quickly turns into beautiful rock and fun climbing.

P1. Climb the mossy slab straight up with not too much pro. It’s easy terrain though. Continue out of the trees and find a nice flake for a gear anchor at a comfortable spot. 170' 5.2

P2. Continue straight up through more flakes towards the tree island up and right of the overhang. Find a spot for a gear anchor before getting too close to the tree island. Otherwise you will run out of rope trying to find a good spot. 160-180’ 5.5

P3. Pass the tree island on its right and traverse left just above it. Continue just a little more left and not much further up passing some featured rock you will find a great spot for a gear anchor. 90-100’ 5.5

P4. Traverse left and you will see a vertical flake you can layback. The rock above arches left and follow it. Cross over the central groove and go up a steep quartz dike to a ledge and gear anchor. Big gear is useful for the anchor. 160’ 5.7

P5. Continue up slightly veering left over featured terrain that soon turns into a smooth steep slab. This section is the crux. Pass some flakes and a bolt. The slab eases as you continue but there’s no pro for some distance. There are small flakes and cracks higher up which you can use for a gear belay not much before the head wall. 195’ 5.7

P6. The final pitch is up over the headwall, which is not that steep at this section. Climb the featured rock to the top and a tree belay. 150’ 5.5

Walk left to the October Sundae’s anchor to rappel down. It’s at the top of the white rock 25’ left.

GPS: N44.466351, W71.068516

Get there by taking the October Sundae trail to that climb (see

North Bald Cap trails. Red to October Sundae and yellow to Lost Boys area. and main slab area "getting there" description). Then go right 60’and up 50’ to the next slab over. It’s small and dirty and easy to miss. The start is much higher than the two close by surrounding climbs. If you see a nice slab, you went little too far and got to Road North.

Standard rack. A #4 was useful at the 4th pitch belay, but probably not required.