Alpine Experience - A link Up & New(?) Finish

NOTE- The the first 3 bolted belays have been removed from this this climb to revert it back to a more Alpine Experience which is in keeping with the ethics of the crag. This was a mutual agreement. It's a nice line that utilizes some of the best parts of existing routes and climbs a fairly direct line up the slab headed for the clean, gray rock about 30-40 feet the left of Orgasmo Slab. The last 2 1/2 pitches are believed to be new (see History) Moderate climbing, reasonably protected cruxes.P1 – Climb the first pitch of October Sundae

125-130 ft,  5.6-5.7  (Bolt placed with permission of FA leader, but may be removed. Either he forgot the discussion, or changed his mind. ) NOTE: Check the belay tree at the top of the pitch it seems dead; but was “backed up” to another tree in Nov 2020. 

 P2 – Climb the 2nd pitch of October Sundae and then climb through a notch (photo) in the right side of the overhang. ( See Comment by P. C. -  seems Oct Sun went through this notch although NEClimbs topo shows is going further right,the back left.) Build a gear belay at a good flake about 20-25 ft up and left of the top of the notch..  150 - 160 ft,  5.3 - 5.4  The bolted anchor directly below notch in the OH has been removed. RH & RW climbed the notch Aug 20, 2020, but others before us (see COMMENT)  [NOTE: It is also possible to make pitch 2 shorter and establish a gear belay 30-40 ft below the notch, and then with a long rope (70m ?) run all the way through the notch and all of P3. Communication might be difficult.] P3 – Leaving the line of October Sundae (which traverses left, a bit BELOW the level of the gear belay, to the fabulous jam crack pitch) Climb up the clean, grey rock into the wide, central depression of the slab.  Step over a small overlap and continue up the depression. Gear belay in a wide crack (#1 to #2's) or move up and left another 25+/- feet to the bolted belay/anchor of the 3rd pitch of October Sunday . 150 Ft 5.4 +/-  The climb joins "Ingy's Ice Cream" (which comes in from the right) near the top of this pitch. P4 - Move right and climb the obvious quartz dike, following Ingy’s Ice Cream.  (Gear: finger-thick cam(s) down low, see photo.) Above the dike, continue up on easy terrain. About 30 ft. above the dike Ingy’s branches off left headed for a big white slab, [photo] Continue up straight, make a move past a bolt (above the bolt a dbl bolt anchor may still remain to the right, take it if it’s there) and head for a 15-20 ft high right-facing flake/corner. Up this, stepping left (bolt still in? ) then back right and up to a bush-island. Gear belay at the right end of the sandy ledge forming the island.  160 - 200? ft  5.6-5.7  Note: Crack is good, but may require two of the same sized cams..I think green (0.75 fit)

 P5 – Starting at the sandy ledge (gear) climb the slab ( ? passing a bolt, still in ?), then up some nice cracks. [see NOTE about Orgasmo] As of Nov 2020 there was a double bolt anchor up and right from the top of the cracks. If it’s still there take it and combine the next 30 ft with P6 as described below. 

If the anchor has been removed...continue up on easy terrain that is roughly 15 ft right of a tree island (see photo) You'll pass over some yellow-rock "holes" and pass a 1ft pancake-like flake (natural thread, 8mm left in, might be cleaned). Now step left, over the rib, and one step down to the sandy ledge of the tree island. As of Nov 2020 there was a bolt about 15 ft up. Either belay of the scraggly trees, or climb up to the bolt, clip it and lower back to the ledge. Tie off and belay. 170-190 ft 5.4-5.5.  A bolt at the level of the ledge would be really nice.

 NOTE: If you want to get to the superb pitch of Orgasmo Slab move 40-50 feet down and right from the top of the slab, before the cracks. This will get you to the belay/rap anchor on that climb. If the dbl bolt anchor mentioned in P5 is still “in”, the BEST of “Orgasmo Slab” can be climbed by simply moving right 20-25 ft and climb up to the first of the 3 protection bolts of that climb! P6 –  From the left end of the ledge (re)-climb up the clean slab (to the bolt, still in? ) into the shallow corner with a small overlap on its left.  Up the corner (gear above the overlap), passing a second bolt ( still in?). then move right up to a dbl bolt-chain anchor (??) about 10 ft below the trees. or up to the trees if the anchor has been removed.  80  ft 5.6-5.7 

Descend: Options:1) If the top anchor and the anchors mentioned as being in the middle of pitches 4 and 5 are still in place, then rap down these (a single 70m will make these) to the anchor at the top of P4 of October Sundae (the anchor 25-30 ft left of Ingy's quartz dike) Then down Oct Sunday with double 60m ropes. The rap from this anchor takes you over the overhang. At the OH aim for the fallen birch tree on the ledge below you (I.e keep left) and you will avoid the sharp edges of the OH. Do NOT aim for the dbl bolt anchor below the OH ( on the “direct” variation). This is where the sharp edge is.2) If the anchors have been removed, walk about 100 +/- ft left to the top anchor of Oct Sunday. Rap that line with double 60m ropes. ( 5 raps) 

START on October Sundae - Follow directions in the Main Slab Area, the path leads right to the start of the climb, easily recognized by the beautiful white slab on P1.

A 70m may be nice.  You'll need a second rope (or pull-down) at least 60m long for the raps. Std Rack with doubles of the mid-sizes (0.4 - 1 ) Nuts are helpful, especially the finger - to knuckle sizes.