October Sundae

A fantastic moderate route to the top of the cliff with great variety. Mostly 5.2-5.4 climbing with a few moves a grade or two harder spread out. Lots of options. You could probably do the route 3 or 4 times and never do it exactly the same.P1. Climb the slab to the tree ledge. The first 15' or so are very mossy and can be wet, but is very easy. The moves on the white rock are the crux of the climb, probably by 2 grades, and now has one bolt (placed with permission of the FA leader) protecting the thinnest move, and (with a good belayer) preventing ground fall as the thin moves continue at 5.5 or so before easing off and gaining protection. Belay at tree(s). 120-125 ft  5.7 One can also climb P1 of "Ingy's Ice Cream" (the next climb right). It is easier and one can then move back left to "October"). It is also possible to start on the "Road North" and join "October" at the end of P2.P2. Move belay to toe of cliff. Continue up and slightly right-ish on featured climbing until about 30' - 35 ft below the roof and establish a gear anchor. One can also go to the double bolt anchor, WIll cause little more rope drag on pitch 3 but manageable. If doing the direct variatrion on pitch 3, that is a good option. 180-185 ft  5.3-5.4 P3. Climb through the right side of the roof starting at a slanting, sort-of left-facing corner/crack and a notch with jugs. (photo) Above the OH (optional belay) traverse left above the roof, choosing your adventure. Once at the end of the traverse, you should see the beautiful "vertical" crack on a slightly bulging face that you are headed for. Gear belay 20' below it using a slanting nice crack with a good stand below.  170 +/- ft 5.5

Climbers just finished p2. Topo is showing the Direct route on the left (via bolt) and the more traditional way on the right, to next belay location (gear anchor).

[ Note- While the photo in the original reference for this route (in NEClimbs.com) shows the route going completely right of the OH, a communication from FA-er  P. Cormier (see his COMMENT in “Alpine Experience” ) indicates the original route climbed through the OH at the notch as described above. R. Hall, NH Admin.] October Sundae Direct: If you are interested in a more sustained variation using a more aesthetically direct line this is a nice option for P2 and P3.  From the top of P1 climb directly up, maybe a bit left-ish, on easy rock to a double bolt anchor below the left side of the overhang.  From the anchor go left-ish and up passing some gear placement and a bolt towards the left side of the overhang. At a weakness towards the left end, do a bouldery move with good gear (easier if you are tall) and surmount the overhang. Continue straight up over easier terrain to gear anchor (same as described for P3 above). 120 ft 5.7 

October Sundae Direct - Traverse left under the overhang, passing a bolt and surmount the overhang on the left end.

P4. From the gear belay, climb the beautiful crack! [photos] One or more, 0.75 Green "Camalot-sized" cams useful. End at a two bolt anchor on the slab to the right of a tree island. 110 ft 5.4 - 5.5P5. Veer left to the top right side of the tree island, then move up to the steeper featured section with fun moves and continue up and left to another double bolt anchor. [There are two photos of this pitch, each a slightly different variation.] 180 ft 5.5-5.6 P6. Pad up the clean white slab, over the small overlap and then run it out (5.1-5.2R) to the base of the headwall. Gear belay. 100 +/- ft 5.4P7. Take your choice. Either one, you will have hard time seeing the anchor until you basically on top of it. It is located at the highest point of the headwall (where the rock is brighter). You can combine p6 and p7 with a 60m rope with some stretching. It just about reaches the top anchor! This assumes long slings and a direct line.* Move up a small corner, step left and then up the face and cracks via the easiest-looking line to the top anchor. "0.3 and 0.4 Camalots" very useful. 100+/- ft 5.4-5.5 * Climb the slabs a bit to the left, less protection and maybe a bit harder. At the top, move right to the anchor. 110 +/- ft 5.5-5.6Descent: 5 raps with doubled 60m ropes.. First ascentist Paul Cormier describes it (Paul’s words in italic): It is very simple to just rap straight down the entire cliff on October Sundae. [On the 3rd rappel],  rap straight down, avoiding the overhang on your climbers / rapeller’s right , or east end of the overhang. That 2 bolt rap anchor [on DIRECT] is the reason for the shreaded ropes, [it lures people to the right]. Go straight down into the trees, a swath is nicely cut for you, and rap off a new tree anchor.Then straight down again to the first pitch anchor, [As with all rap stations, check it out before you use it.] once again, all nicely cut out  

GPS: N44.466212 W71.068382

Left side of the cliff. It's a big cliff with thick vegetation, which makes it hard to locate climbs. You have two options:

Best option is to take the trail described in the "Main Slab Area". It leads directly to this climb. Also see picture in the North Bald Cap main page. You can take the trail to the Lost Boys Area and bushwack along the cliff. There is not much traffic here and it can be a long arduous traverse.

Note: The cliff has multiple slab starts that look similar to each other, so pay attention. See pics in the Main Slab Area for other starts.

Standard rack. First three belays are natural/gear. The last three are bolt anchors.