- Edit (TBD)
Description
A route not to be missed on the right side of the main slab, up high. If it was cleaned up it would be 4 stars! A good variety of interesting slabs and big steep headwalls with amazing moves. This route was originally rated 5.7 but I put it up as 5.8 as it’s a grade harder than other 5.7s on this cliff.
P1. Start up the dirty lichen filled featured slab (around 5.6) with some tricky moves. There’s not much pro and not too much clean rock. Be careful and don’t give up, it gets much better! When you reach the head wall, surmount it on the far left side. It’s tricky, but with decent gear and little better rock. The moves up here are so much fun. It’s eases up after that with some flakes and smaller overlaps to a two bolt anchor, which you will not see until basically upon it. A 60m is just about to reach fully stretched. If you’re not sure, build a temporary gear anchor right after the head wall at a small ledge. 200’ 5.8
P2. This pitch starts up a clean fun featured slab. So much nicer than the first pitch’s slab section. When you get to the big headwall, veer left and go up on the far left here too, pretty much right under a small tree little higher up. Climb up and right over the arête with amazing fun moves to a small ledge and gear anchor. 170’ 5.7
P3. Last pitch is straight up over easier terrain with featured slab. It gets little dirty here again, but the pro is okay. You will not see the top two bolt anchor until literally on it, but it rights over the edge. If using 70s you can combine the two last pitches but a 60 will not reach. 50’ 5.5
Two full length 60m double rope rappels will take you back to the bottom, using two bolt anchors.
Location
GPS: N44.467128 W71.069620Get there by taking the October Sundae trail towards that climb (see
North Bald Cap trails. Red to October Sundae and yellow to Lost Boys area. and main slab area "getting there" description). Where the trail takes a sharp left go straight ahead instead (towards the cliff) and you will very soon see a brook. Cross it and continue through the woods veering slightly right. It will get steeper but keep going. It’s a little confusing up here with interspersed slabs. Take a good look at the start pic and/or use the GPS coordinates.The start of the route is up high on the left side of the slab. The bottom part is mossy and unappealing. Belay right at the slab start. Otherwise you won't reach the anchor.
Protection
Standard rack.