Center of Progress Cliff
Description
[Edit]This is another great Silver Lake cliff. A short approach, great rock, and some routes that are among the best in the Park hare a few of the reasons to check it out. The cliff has a mix of trad, sport, and mixed pitches, typically one or two pitches. The cliff really shines in the 5.10 grade, and I consider it a must-visit for the 5.10 Adirondack climber. Some highlights are: Connecticut Yankee, two pitches of crack climbing equal in quality to Hard Times at Moss Cliff. The first pitch (10+) features a strenuous undercling out an arch, into a wide flake. Hands around a roof lead to a comfy belay ledge. The 2nd pitch (10-) starts (very) thin crack off the belay for 50' on perfect black rock. Continue up cracks and corners past a final roof to the top. Ken Nichols got the FFA in 1984, the grades are solid.... Adirondack Iron, an approach pitch (9-) climbs a crack in a groove to a great belay ledge. P2 (5.10) is incredible face climbing up a broad shield of perfect rock with a steep and climatic finish. This is the best 5.10 pitch I've done on any cliff at Silver Lake-spectacular. Other must do routes for the 5.10 climber are, from R to L: Rock Hangers, 1p (5.10)-steep crack on interesting rock Tiguidou Pack-Sack, 1p (9+) steep undulating corner Objects In Motion, 2p (5.10 A0, 5.10-) climb p1 of Ct. Yankee to ledge. A few points of aid to corners, crack, and a hard mantle. red, black & blue, 2p (10+, 10) deceptively hard face climbing to a steeper and thinner face on p1, a ramp to corner, then face crux on p2 Do The Evolution, 1p (5.10) climb P1 of Silver Flake to a belay. Follow Silver Flake p2 for 15', step left onto slab. Face climbing to a steep crux corner. Finish up flakes and slashing cracks in a slab. Wasted Reprise, 1p (5.10) Climb past the p1 belay of Silver Flake to a two bolt belay. Climb the left arching crack/flake that is surprisingly off balance. Enter a true heel and toe off width that has a hidden crack inside for gear, no wide pro needed. Exit right to a shared belay with Do the Evolution. Quercus Rubra, 2p (9+, 9+) Two varied pitches-sport bolted face/slab to a two bolt anchor). P2 starts easy runout up and right to hands in a perfect corner. When the corner ends, steep face climbing leads to a tricky wide groove, and a final slab. Tooth & Nail, 2p (10/10+, 5.7) Thin crack to a flawless corner. There are many other worthwhile climbs in harder and easier grades. Moderates worth seeking out are: Rolls Royce, 1p (5.7+). Interesting face to a steep crack finish, shared anchor w/ Tiguidou Pack-Sack. BruisedOrange, 1p (5.7) Closely bolted sport climbing starts in a corner, makes a cool pull around an arete, and finishes on a featured low angle face.
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