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Peak Mountain 3

Connecticut Yankee

FA (incomplete with aid) Tad Welch, Bill Widrig 1982, FFA Ken Nichols, Mike Heintz 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An Adirondack gem. Also known as "Interloper."The first pitch climbs up the inside of a left-facing arch before moving into a hand traverse left to a big right-facing flake - stout and sporty. Climb the flake up 50' to a nice belay ledge. The second pitch is a long one (5.10a) and a straight shot for the top, heading up a beautiful flaring fingercrack into a series of corners and over a roof. I suspect early ascents broke this up into two pitches, as I understand ropes were shorter back then...Walk off to the right or two rappels with two ropes. 

Location

The obvious right-facing flake systems to the right of a big cave ("The Locker Room") with an offwidth crack climbing out of a chimney (the route Sinner Repent). The direct start climbs a thin flaring fingercrack at 11+. The normal route climbs up a left-facing arch to traverse left to the flake system. 

Protection

A big rack - doubles, plus a #4 and a #5 for the first pitch recommended. You could easily place two of each of the wide pieces if you wanted to sew it up.


Routes in Center of Progress Cliff


  1. 3
    Connecticut Yankee
    5.10d
    Trad