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Connecticut Yankee
Description
An Adirondack gem. Also known as "Interloper."The first pitch climbs up the inside of a left-facing arch before moving into a hand traverse left to a big right-facing flake - stout and sporty. Climb the flake up 50' to a nice belay ledge. The second pitch is a long one (5.10a) and a straight shot for the top, heading up a beautiful flaring fingercrack into a series of corners and over a roof. I suspect early ascents broke this up into two pitches, as I understand ropes were shorter back then...Walk off to the right or two rappels with two ropes.
Location
The obvious right-facing flake systems to the right of a big cave ("The Locker Room") with an offwidth crack climbing out of a chimney (the route Sinner Repent). The direct start climbs a thin flaring fingercrack at 11+. The normal route climbs up a left-facing arch to traverse left to the flake system.
Protection
A big rack - doubles, plus a #4 and a #5 for the first pitch recommended. You could easily place two of each of the wide pieces if you wanted to sew it up.
Routes in Center of Progress Cliff
- 3Connecticut Yankee5.10dTrad