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Peak Mountain 3

Clampdown

FA Bealor, Liguori, 10/11/19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start by the maple and boulder up to a horizontal (.5 or .75 C4). Climb up the slab, clipping the first 5 bolts. Now traverse straight right (no hands but good feet) for 15' to a stance below a crimpy face. Up the face to a mantle, then cruise up and right (#1 C4 along the way) to the top of a pointed flake. Climb the arete and face past a few tricky sections (blue tcu along the way) to a fixed anchor just below the P3 traverse of Silver Flake. Great, naturally clean, slab, thin face, and arete climbing. Descent- Rappel 115' to the ground

Location

Locate Sinner Repent, the obvious full length chimney on the main cliff. Walk left several hundred feet-you're looking for a naturally clean, chocolate colored slab. There's a bolted line; red, black, and blue;leading up the left hand side of the slab. There is a mature maple growing right against the slab directly below the bolt line.

Protection

Mainly sport bolted, but carry .5, .75, and #1 C4's; blue tcu; and optional large stopper Double ropes strongly recommended for leader, and appreciated by follower.


Routes in Center of Progress Cliff