Buckshot

From the top of the trail to Sunshine Wall, head left past two short vertical cracks (the base of

Squatter's Rights

). Past these, you'll see a newer one-pitch bolted line angling up right with a two-bolt anchor. Walk up into the bushy gully behind another 40 feet to the base of Buckshot. Squish on the left angles up left and into the noticeable off-width, 40 feet up. Buckshot is on the right in something of a dihedral. To its right is a large chimney. Above you can see a dihedral and the obvious handcrack of Buckshot's third pitch to its right.

P1: head straight up. The 10a (right)/10c (left) variations present themselves at the overhanging block 60 feet up. Look for the knee lock up underneath on the left for a rest. Great varied climbing including stemming, arm locks, vertical finger cracks, jamming, and a mantel just past the crux. (This pitch is in the shade in the winter--hands might get a tad cool.) Belay on top of the block by the old red webbing, or continue up and left to combine the first two pitches, to another good ledge (in the sun!) 30 feet up.

P2: "We Scared O' de Goofa Man" heads right up a low angle gully type thing; you want to cross over and up to the left. Jam the short crack and gain the "perfect" South Platte belay spot.

P3: Not the dihedral above, but the body-wide ramp to the right that angles up to the vertical handcrack. Use passive pro while the climbing is easier to save your mid-size and larger cams for what waits above--hard, sustained jamming. In our estimation, this was clearly the hardest climbing of the route, several grades more challenging, strenous, and sustained than the 10c crux of the first pitch. However, the Hubbel/Rolofson guide has it listed at 10a. After 20 feet or so, it relents toward an easier angle. Continue up to the top.

Walk off the back, picking your way down a gully. There's a single necessary rappel from a pine on the right next to a big slab. The slings are a bit dicey.

Pro to 4", extra 2"-4"