- Edit (TBD)
Description
This new 2 pitch line is a fun mix of offwidth and face/slab climbing. We're listing it as a sport climb, but you do need a couple of #4s and a #2/#3 Camalot for the initial offwidth shared with
Squatter's Rights
.
Pitch 1
(10d/11a; 35m; 9 bolts + gear): start in the right #4 crack for
Squatter's Rights
. Climb this fun, well-protected offwidth to a big ledge where the face climbing begins. Leaving the ledge, there is a hollow flake that you must pull and mantel on. It sounds bad but is completely attached on the left, so I don't think it will go anywhere. The bolting leaving the ledge is tight, but they get further apart as you get higher up. Expect a couple of semi-exciting mantels. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor at a small stance. It is all of a 70m rope to lower from here, so knot your ends!
Pitch 2
(10c; 17m; 6 bolts): tip toe up the slab past a few bolts. The rock is a bit more crumbly on this pitch but hopefully will clean up overtime. The position is killer though, and the top of the route is a mini-tower, so it's worth doing.
Location
It is about 100 yards left of
Arch Nemesis
(where the trail meets the wall initially as you hike up).
Protection
(1x) #2/#3 Camalot, (2-3x) #4 Camalot, draws, and slings.
Routes in Sunshine Wall
- 9Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World5.10dSport