We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Rip Van Winkle

FA [Greg Davis and Chris Reveley in 1975]
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This fine handcrack is located on the northeast side of the Sunshine Wall. The best approach is to climb the first two pitches of

Gonzo's Lament

to reach the saddle between the Sunshine Wall and the Sunshine Face (Turkey Foot Tower). These pitches are pretty unremarkable, but the alternative is to scratch up the gully between the Sunshine Face and the Poe Buttress. Another possible approach is to climb the

Turkey Foot Crack

and continue to the saddle. This involves a poorly protected 5.10 corner and some 4th class around left. The crack is distinguished by a significant jog (crux) to the right towards its top. The beginning is somewhat wide, but the protection was pretty diverse, so the wide stuff is unnecessary. On the topos this route is two pitches, and there is a nice ledge to stop and belay. Better, though, is to link this into one long quality pitch with around 30' leftover on a 60m cord.

The rappel is close by, and it is possible to reach a safe ledge with one 60m.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles in hand size.