Zed's Dead

"Who's motorcycle is this?"

"It's a chopper, baby."

"Who's chopper is this?"

"It's Zed's."

"Who's Zed?"

"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."

This is one of the steepest routes at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Climb past 5 bolts then work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. Clip a 6th bolt, fight through a final crux and enjoy the swollen forearms. This thing is PUMPY!

Note: I've seen a lot of people climb this with a single #2, but doing so is extremely risky.  Staunton granite is not Yosemite granite and gear does pull on occasion.  If you can't hold on to place 2 pieces, consider pre-placing the gear or building up your endurance so you can climb the route more safely.

It is in the middle of the steepest part of The Dungeon. Climb the obvious, overhanging dihedral.

In order:

5 bolts (with permadraws), BD #3, #2, bolt, red C3, C4 #0.75/#1. It is possible to get a couple more finger-sized pieces in, but that is the rack that worked for me.