No Excuse

No Excuse starts 8 feet left of

Soaked in Sin (SiS)

on a velvety pocket-jug below a bolt with a rap ring hanger on it -- this rap ring hanger helps with the torque that the first bolt experiences. Climb up to a roof, then power your way through a series of underclings, crimps, and slopers to a jug rest above at the 5th bolt. This boulder problem is in the V7/8 range, and it is nearly impossible to clip the 3rd bolt. I think the best way to clip the 3rd bolt is with a stick from the ground.... Just make sure you clip the 1st and 2nd bolt too to keep the rope out of your way while you’re cruxing.

Rest up at the jug, then layback your way past a few more bolts to another crux at the upper roof. This crux is probably only V4, but it feels really hard with a pump! Don't cheat yourself by escaping right to the crack on

SiS

-- the upper face crux is awesome! Lower from a shared anchor with

SiS

.

No Excuse is about 1/3rd of the way up the steep wall of the Dungeon.

SiS

to the right, and the Big Papa project to the left.

10 bolts, all equipped with permadraws except the first bolt.