- Edit (TBD)
Description
Sugar Mama is a test of power with several challenging sequences that will leave you gasping for air as you battle the high elevation of The Dungeon! Begin with an interesting compression boulder problem to get past the second bolt and establish a good rest. From here, navigate the crux section, which involves powerful pulls and deadpoints to gain a positive crimp rail as you climb slightly left before continuing straight up past the last bolt.
Clip the anchor about halfway up the wall to tick Sugar Mama. There is an extension that doesn’t add any quality to the route, but could act as a warm down victory lap. The climbing to the first anchor stays dry even in a downpour!
Location
This is the sport climb located just left of
Tanuki
and to the right of
Two in the Pink
. The anchor is about halfway up the wall.
Protection
Permadraws.
Routes in The Dungeon
- 13Sugar Mama5.13cSport