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Peak Mountain 3

Sugar Mama

FA Kevin Capps, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sugar Mama is a test of power with several challenging sequences that will leave you gasping for air as you battle the high elevation of The Dungeon! Begin with an interesting compression boulder problem to get past the second bolt and establish a good rest. From here, navigate the crux section, which involves powerful pulls and deadpoints to gain a positive crimp rail as you climb slightly left before continuing straight up past the last bolt.

Clip the anchor about halfway up the wall to tick Sugar Mama. There is an extension that doesn’t add any quality to the route, but could act as a warm down victory lap. The climbing to the first anchor stays dry even in a downpour!

Location

This is the sport climb located just left of

Tanuki

and to the right of

Two in the Pink

. The anchor is about halfway up the wall.

Protection

Permadraws.