- Edit (TBD)
Description
Starts approx 50' right of Ides of Middlemarch.
Pitch 1 (130', 10+): Awkward moves protected by a .75" cam and bolts lead to a blunt arete. Follow bolts up and right to a two bolt semi-hanging belay.
Pitch 2 (120', 11-): Straight up protected by bolts on technical face climbing. Make a difficult move left after the 5th bolt, pull a bulge, and head up and right to a ledge. Follow a ramp up and right on easy terrain to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: (170', 11R): Difficult technical face climbing left of a series of bolts lead to easier ground above. On the easier ground, head up and left crossing a right leaning gully. Clip a few more bolts then make a 40-50' runout on 5.7 terrain to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: (160', 10-R): Head toward a bolt visible about 50' above. The terrain is about 5.7 and there is some occasional gear. After clipping the bolt, head up and slightly left following two more bolts and placing some gear. You will encounter a few 10- moves. Stop at a two bolt anchor by a large ledge.
Transfer the the belay left approx 100' left to a two bolt anchor. Two bolt lines head up from this anchor, you will take the right hand line of bolts.
Pitch 5 (80', 10b): Follow the right hand bolt line up to a crack. Place one cam and head slightly left and up to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 6: (80', 10c): Follow bolts up and right along tricky slab (10c). Continue past bolts to an anchor on the summit.
Location
See topo: toofasttopos.com/free/
Protection
Mostly bolts, a light rack including nuts and cams to 2" will fill in the occasional gaps between bolts.
Routes in The Sheepshead
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