The Shepherd

Round up the flock and quest across every route you've ever climbed on the Sheepshead. This is an adventure that will test your route-finding skills, your ability to manage rope drag and sling chicken heads that actually stay on while climbing sideways, and your social skills to cordially pass other parties while going the wrong direction.P1 – Start up the right-facing corner of Bruise the Rooster, a few hundred feet up the gully from Ewephoria. Continue up to a ledge, clip two bolts off the ledge and then trend right clipping bolts occasionally with gear in-between. Once at the first anchor, climb straight right clipping a few more anchors on the way as pro, and meander through a lightly vegetated section. Belay on gear left of close to the top of p.2 of Ewephoria. P2 – Follow holds over and up towards p.2 anchor of Ewephoria. Continue past, climbing just under a tree via a wider crack into easier terrain. Protect and traverse straight right for another 50’. Comfy belay 15ft up from this point on a small ledge. P3 – Downclimb a 4” crack, scramble to an offwidth, and downclimb that to a ledge. Traverse right to a belay under a nice shady tree.P4 – Find anchors up and right of the tree (p.3 of Last Roundup), and lower off these ~80 ft. Some gear to a bolt (.10- bulge of p.3 of TTTD). Downclimb the bulge, and then work right toward the dike. Pull around to awesome airy feature. Belay off tree in the corner. 70m pitch.P5 – Short pitch up buttress just to the left of Dark Horse. Ends with a 15’ downclimb to reach p.3 ledge of Dark Horse (can be protected)P6 – Lower off anchors right of ledge, approximately 50’ or so to gain good face holds into bigger chicken heads. Link up with Peacemaker, and then climb the crack up to the p.3 anchors. Watch your rope drag.P7 – Stellar pitch. Downclimb 5’ and go right and up to bolt, then to a second (back clean). First crux is traversing right to the corner. Follow the corner up to a shallow downward facing crack. Second crux is trusting your gear and making it to the chicken heads out right. Choose your own adventure and quest across the sea of chicken heads, trending up and right. Belay in corner with good spot to sit, 70m pitch.P8 – Short pitch up to the left of a ledge (p.4 anchors of Stampede) to a massive ledge before the headwall.P9 – Climb a sharp and contrived 5.11 bolted route to the top (collect some kitty litter on this pitch to bring home to your gatos).INSTEAD of P8+9 - We think ending on the final pitch of Phony Pony would be more in character with the rest of the route. Stay lower on P7, aiming for the ledge with the trees. We think from here it may be possible to link into Phony Pony.A tag line is necessary for the pitches that require penjis/lowering (for the follower). Also, bring as many runners and double lengths as you can, rope drag is a crux of this climb.2021 – The Year of the Girdle

Start up the right-facing corner of Bruise the Rooster, a few hundred feet up the gully from Ewephoria. When in doubt, climb right.

Single rack of cams with some nuts and tricams. Doubles could be good depending on how spicy you like your salsa.