Ides of Middlemarch

Seems my old route description is out of date; Check Geir's topo for an updated description....

Contrary to rc.com, I think the crux is near the top of the second pitch; protected with a pin.

P1. 5.7-5.9; poor rock quality-crack or face to right-facing crack/off-width with a slight (bolt protected) traverse up and left to shrub/tree position for belay (two old bolts/hangers).

P2. 5.9+; the "money" pitch. Thin face start to crack/off-width/chimney climbing. Protects well. Piton at the crux. Stop at fixed slings ca. 200 feet.

P3. 5.8-5.9; continue up crack to what looks like (but is not)a roof. Standard route is the traverse right to a 5.6 crack (with nice positioning and great exposure) and then up run-out face on plates (~ 210 ft). A variation listed in the guide book is left at the overhang.

P4. 5.5-5.6 face climbing to the "great ledge".

P5. Original pitch is an awkward, overhanging off-width. There are numerous (I count four) bolted face climbs to reach the summit.

IMHO, for P1 ignore rc.com and: 1) either skirt the bulge to the right, or 2) do the bolted (harder) start. The bulge is protected with a scary bolt and hanger.

Definitely an "adventure" route, 5.9 climbers heads-up.

Great exposure and positioning on pitch 3 (and a bit run-out)!

Continue up trail from peacemaker (about 120 feet).

There are several variations for the start; there is a right-leaning easy crack, a harder bolted face (down and around to the right), and the original start, I presume, that I have apparently not done. Check the Toofast topo (see comments from Geir below) for more route info.

This climb has a walk off.

Standard rack. A few old hangers on pitch 1 and for the belay for pitch two (note; the fixed hangers for the belay are suspect). Pitch 3 belay has (2) fixed pitons with slings. A fixed cam on pitch 3 protects the traverse (if you do the standard variation; you can also add supplementary gear). Build your own belay for pitch 4 in a crack/dish ~ 200 ft. Pitch 5 has options; awkward crack or bolted face climbs.