Jack & Sally

P1. Climb a slab with one bolt to a crack, and follow this crack to a ledge. Then climb the next obvious crack to another slab with two bolts to a horizontal break in the wall with a 2 bolt anchor. This is a good warm-up, 5.easy climbing to the 5.8 bolted slab. Protection: 3 bolts, brass and microcams (5.8, 100 feet).

P2. Friction and smear your way past 5 bolts up the path of most resistance (slab daddies, beware). Find another 2 bolt anchor below a shallow roof. This has awesome movement on less-than-vertical, nearly featureless slab. Protection: 5 bolts (5.10a/b, 50 feet).

P3. Place gear in the shallow roof, and move up and slightly climbers right into a flaring crack, place gear here (where you get it), and move up to the first bolt. Be careful not to move too far right off the belay as there is a large hollow sounding flake that appears to be completely detached from the wall, tread lightly. Tiptoe up the slab past two bolts trending up and slightly right to another shallow roof, place gear, and trend up and right to the next bolt. One more gear placement is possible before continuing up and right to the anchors of P3 of

Lincoln Lake Apron

. Protection: 3 bolts, finger and thin hands-sized cams (5.7, 100 feet).

Descent: rappel

Lincoln Lake Apron

. There is also a set of anchors 20 feet climber's left from the top of P3 of

Lincoln Lake Apron

that allows Jack & Sally to be rapped. Currently Jack & Sally's P1 & P2 anchors are equipped with quick links for rappelling - 3 raps, a 70m rope is recommended.

Start 20 feet left of

Marzipan

, look for the first bolt in a white dike below the crack.

Mixed gear and bolts. We did not use anything larger than a #1. Brass and doubles on micro cams from 0.1- 0.4 are handy, but you can probably get away with singles. The third pitch protects well with fingers and thin hand-sized cams.