- Edit (TBD)
Description
Scramble up to a grassy ledge with a single loose, but usable, bolt. Handy for keeping packs and climbers from slipping of the ledge.
From the belay, move right into an easy corner and solo up 20 feet to a ledge. From the ledge, make an unprotected move left onto the face to reach the first pro in a horizontal crack (small cam). Move left along the seam to even bigger, better pro.
Once this gear is in, it is possible to back-clean the first piece or two. The crux is near the end of the pitch, that's why the back-clean hassle is worth the trouble.
From the last good gear in the horizontal seam, move up to the first protection bolt, 30 or 40 feet above the loose bolt. The second bolt is just above, after which a long runout is done up right to a grassy ledge and bolt #3.
Four or five more bolts protect some thin crumbly/cruxy moves. A small/medium cam helps protect the run out to the anchors (40 meters).
Location
See the photo.
Protection
A half-dozen cams from small to medium.
Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs
- 22Loose Bolt Slab5.9Alpine · Trad