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Description
This is the obvious, right-leaning crack with varying sized roofs on a slab.
Start on a ramp under a long, angling block. Climb the block up and left until it reaches a quick, broken overhang (crux) that protects very well. Then, follow the crack right up the leaning wall toward the major roof. Navigate the roof, and follow the clean, leaning crack for another 35 feet to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.
The route is completely protected from rain with the exception of the last 20 feet or so. All the gear is great, but a fall on the upper slab could be rough. Due to the sustained leaning nature of this route, it's best to have a follower clean.
Location
Keasbey Nights is located in the northern most alcove of the Lincoln Lake Slabs.
Protection
A single rack to 3 with a few extra mid-size pieces & slings, and a 2 bolt anchor.
On the ground-up FA, our rope got stuck in the crack so badly I was unable to pull up enough slack to build a proper anchor. A lead bolt was placed about 3/4's the way to keep the rope out of the crack.
Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs
- 32Keasbey Nights5.11aAlpine · Trad