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Peak Mountain 3

Sympathy for the Devil

FA A. Miller, June 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an amazing route that starts in a thin hand crack just right of Ojo. It has a power crux with fantastic movement and features, and an easier but wild topout crux, just too much fun! This route had an old rusted and wiggly piton at the base that I have cleaned so that it wouldn't get accidentally clipped. Someone had tried at one point to aid this line but likely bailed due to the hollow rock that would otherwise have been the gear and had smashed the rock trying to recover the pin(the pin wiggled but was only finally removed by a crowbar, impressive!) . Because of this, I had chosen to bolt the crack sections rather than require gear, it just wasn't safe. I think this would have been a fun mixed lead, but it didn't work out. Regardless, its nothing but fun.

Location

Just right of Ojo, start in nice clean crack.

Protection

10 bolts. Optional tight-hand sized piece to get started in 5.6 terrain to first bolt. Stick clip from ledge would also work.