- Edit (TBD)
Description
A neat crack line splitting the grey basalt. Good movement with lots of hidden jugs and stances keeps this corner relatively mild. But lots of enjoyable climbing on this line. Another great addition to the Diablo trad circuit. I got my old yellow Tech-Friend stuck at the bottom of this line. This was a favorite piece of mine in the 90's when I climbed often in The Valley. It sits there still. My old Friend is now the Friend of the Devil......
Location
Scramble easily up to the ledge and walk around the corner to a nice nook at the base of FOTD and SAM. You can easily reach the first low security-bolt, in case you are uneasy with the exposure, and gear placements can be found for a belay here too. But there is room here to spread out a smallish yard-sale and comfortably sit and hang out.
Protection
doubles from tips to hands. Shared first and last bolt with "Sweet Anne Marie".
Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
- 17Friend of the Devil5.10-Trad