- Edit (TBD)
Description
Very difficult down low with little to nothing for the feet and sidepulls for your hands. Then take a nap. Again on the upper wall more featured rock but few good holds in a corner gets you to the anchor. I recomend Z-clipping at the anchor since the last bolt and the anchor are so close it is a pain to clip regularly and your waist is still below the last bolt anyway when you clip the anchor.
Additional description from Aaron Miller the FA: Fun and tricky climbing through some unique features, this route has two separate crux sections separated by some easier terrain. The fact that the route is broken by a rest-section does not mean you can let your guard down, the top moves are challenging and excellent on beautiful rock.
Original Online guide description from Rick Bradshaw: At least one individual has had his eye on this piece of rock for a while. A crucial hand hold popped off on an early ascent, turning the moves past the first bolt into a bit of a boulder problem, requiring an attentive belayer. A much needed no hands rest breaks up the sustained climbing on the lower and the upper sections.The best sport route of its grade at Diablo (well, it's the only 12- sport route at Diablo --as of 2004--, but it's really good).
Location
Center of the Ojo Sector wall, really the first route you come to after the arete line of Cruella.
Protection
10 bolts to anchor
Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
- 13Ojo (del Diablo)5.12bSport