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Peak Mountain 3

Ojo (del Diablo)

FA Aaron Miller, 2004 With Peter Steadman & Clay Clarke
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Very difficult down low with little to nothing for the feet and sidepulls for your hands. Then take a nap. Again on the upper wall more featured rock but few good holds in a corner gets you to the anchor. I recomend Z-clipping at the anchor since the last bolt and the anchor are so close it is a pain to clip regularly and your waist is still below the last bolt anyway when you clip the anchor.

Additional description from Aaron Miller the FA: Fun and tricky climbing through some unique features, this route has two separate crux sections separated by some easier terrain. The fact that the route is broken by a rest-section does not mean you can let your guard down, the top moves are challenging and excellent on beautiful rock.

Original Online guide description from Rick Bradshaw:  At least one individual has had his eye on this piece of rock for a while. A crucial hand hold popped off on an early ascent, turning the moves past the first bolt into a bit of a boulder problem, requiring an attentive belayer. A much needed no hands rest breaks up the sustained climbing on the lower and the upper sections.The best sport route of its grade at Diablo (well, it's the only 12- sport route at Diablo --as of 2004--, but it's really good).

Location

Center of the Ojo Sector wall, really the first route you come to after the arete line of Cruella.

Protection

10 bolts to anchor