Stroken' the Chicken

On the recommended routes list in the Yoder/Ford guidebook. Stem your way up between a dihedral and pillar, placing gear into the dihedral crack. There is a large chockstone at ~70 feet that has slings around it that used to serve as the end of the route--climb past this another 30 feet to the new bolted chain anchors.

Between the two sport 5.9s Whipsaw and Throbbing Gristle. If you continue to the top, walk a few routes to the East (climber's right) to an obvious rap station.

Standard rack, on the bigger size. The crack is fairly uniform at about #2 & #3 Camalots most of the way, widening to #4 in the top bit past the chockstone.