Premature Ejaculation

I was working on stuff at the Middle East wall and got too cold so had to find something in the sun. Being Monday I had the place mostly to myself and what better time to do some quarrying.

Theres a route under all this choss I am sure of it.

It looked promising it is just very loose.

It had a 5.8 rating in the book and gear up to #6, and chimney????

More like 5.9, gear up to #4

I have been up dozens of these Robbins FA's now and likely 2nd ascent. He always climbed these cracks ground up, no precleaning, infact they are never cleaned and the choss is horrifying. every single face hold comes off in your hands or under your feet. the sides of the crack have a layer of crumb cake that will not take pro. There are basketball sized holds that look solid and slip right off with the smooth basalt cracks. He survived all these crazy cracks to die in a avalanche.

next crack to the right of Never forget your friends.

not sure yet, still too much rock falling off, crack size changing. no anchor, very convoluted trad anchor at top.